Select a Vet and make an appointment:
I require that you have the puppy examined by a licensed DVM (Doctor of Veterinary Medicine) within two days of picking up your puppy, excluding Sundays and Holidays. The reason for this is to ensure you received a healthy puppy from me and they will put you on a schedule for your pet’s health care needs.
A veterinarian is your pet’s second-best friend. When selecting a vet, you’re doing more than searching for a medical expert. You’re looking for someone to meet your needs and those of your pet, a doctor who has people as well as animal skills. When selecting a veterinarian for your puppy be sure to use a reputable, ethical professional. Before setting up an appointment call competing vet clinics and ask questions.
Come up with a name:
It’s time to start thinking of a name for your new puppy. If you see a name on the website it is for reference purposes only. In almost all cases the puppy will never hear the name that is on the website. The name can be 36 characters long. (You can go to a maximum of 50 characters for a $10 fee.) You are welcome to choose any call name you would like for your puppy, this only affects the officially registered name.
This is one of the most important items to purchase for your puppy. The crate will be his “den” His special place to sleep, stay, and go to feel safe. Purchase one for the size your dog will be as an adult, with dividers that can be removed to enlarge the crate as the puppy grows. The divider is very important so it isn’t large enough that your puppy will soil one end and sleep at the other. The crate should have adequate ventilation, but openings should be small enough so your puppy cannot get his head or paws stuck. Give your puppy a safe chew toy while he’s created. No food or water should be left in the crate because after eating or drinking they will need to relieve themselves and will have no other choice but to soil their crate. The key to successful crate training is to always use it in a positive manner and never as a punishment. Always give them a chance to eliminate before putting your puppy in the crate.
As a general rule, your puppy can safely be left in a crate the number of hours that equals his age in months plus one.
My flight package includes a crate that will be yours to keep. In many cases, they will last for several weeks or months depending on the size of crate your puppy is flown in.
We have a limited number of 26″ crates available for $45 for local pickups.
Exercise Pen or Gate:
Lightweight exercise pens or childproof gates will allow your new family member to be confined to controllable areas, yet be close to the family’s activities.
Leash and Collar:
When picking up your puppy bring along a leash and a collar. Remember a puppy collar will be outgrown quickly, so an inexpensive expandable one is fine. It should be lightweight nylon or leather. For your puppy’s safety, remove his collar while he’s crated.
As a guide, if the puppy is between 8 and 10 weeks old there neck will be between 8-12 inches.
Never underestimate the importance of toys because they encourage exercise and provide a safe way to satisfy your puppy’s need to chew. Choose toys that cannot be splintered, torn apart, or ones that have loose or small parts that can be chewed off and swallowed. Toys provide entertainment but are also necessary for teething and training. Nylon or hard rubber bones and toys are excellent choices for teething puppies. Stuffed animals, which can be torn apart, should only be allowed under direct supervision. Don’t let your puppy play with old shoes or clothing. To a puppy, this signal that all shoes and clothes are fair game.
NO Tennis Balls:
Tennis balls are not safe to allow your new puppy or dog to play with. Sadly several dogs have died because the ball gets lodged in the back of the throat where it cannot be removed by the owner. Also, tennis balls can easily be broken and within minutes a dog could have it in pieces that could easily be swallowed. The fuzz from tennis balls doesn’t break down in the stomach so whether your dog has ingested pieces of the ball or the fuzz both can easily cause an obstruction requiring surgical intervention. The glue used to fasten the fuzz to tennis balls can break down the enamel on your dog’s teeth. When dogs chew on tennis balls the glue becomes wet and abrasive. The combination of chewing and abrasion damages your dog’s teeth and continues to damage his teeth when he’s not chewing because the glue remaining on his teeth breaks down the enamel. With all these reasons why tennis balls may be hazardous to your dog’s health, and so many other balls on the market that are safe to use in play and training, why take the chance on using them?
Water and food dishes should be non-tippable and preferably made of heavy stainless steel. You might want to put a mat or tray under the dishes to protect your floor from spills. I recommend washing the bowls daily. (A cheap option is the trays they sell for shoes or like items. The ones made for pets are almost the same but cost a lot more.)
Order the same food that the puppies are eating now. I will email you more details along with the current feeding schedule.
It is ideal if you can be consistent with your feeding schedule. Feed your puppy at the same time every day.
If you choose to switch brands of food I recommend letting the puppy settle into your routine before switching and should be done gradually, usually over a 7 – 10 day period. Making an abrupt change in a puppy’s food can cause digestive problems. That is why I require you to order at least a small bag of the puppy’s current food prior to arrival. To switch to your own preference of dog food make the change a gradual process to help the puppy adjust, slowly increasing the ratio of food you prefer. Most dog food brands have their own recommendations on how to switch a dog over to their food. You should follow any directions printed on their bag.
The best training treats are those that can be consumed in one bite or swallowed whole. You want to avoid anything that could crumble as most dogs will want to make sure they get every last crumb off the floor before paying attention to you again. It’s also a good idea to feed them something that will support their overall health.
A cheap and easy treat is to fill an ice cube tray with puppy food or other treats and then fill with water or chicken/beef broth and freeze.
LET ME SAY THIS AGAIN… NO RAWHIDES!
Rawhides are not considered a food item. Thus, it is not covered by any labeling, processing, or content laws, and it may contain chemical preservatives. According to Associated Content, imported rawhide chews often contain toxins including arsenic, lead, titanium oxide, formaldehyde, chromium salts, mercury, cadmium, and bromine. Even with the use of these highly questionable preservatives, the FDA reports that Salmonella has been detected in some of the imported chews. In the US and Canada, refrigerated trucks provide safer transport and the hides are generally only treated with hydrogen peroxide and a water rinse. If you must give your dog rawhide, make sure it was made in America. For safety, monitor the chewing. Throw away the small, chewed down pieces. In addition to the chemical risk, rawhide can swell up to four times its original size in your dog’s stomach and cause life-threatening blockages. Dogs can chew off and swallow large pieces of rawhide which can get stuck in their esophagus, stomach, or intestines. This almost always requires surgical removal.
I provide my dogs and puppies with NuVet Plus supplements every day. These supplements come in a tasty chewable tablet that the puppies and dogs like.
As a quality breeder, my highest priority is the health of the dogs I breed. Part of that responsibility includes doing everything possible to assure their well being after they go to a new home. Giving your new puppy NuVet adds an extra layer of protection, especially during the most critical first year of life.
Click here to find out more.
It’s a good idea to have basic grooming tools, such as a comb, shampoo, and dog nail clippers. Be sure to read the directions on any shampoo or bathing product to confirm it is safe for puppies.
When you first bring your puppy home, place him in a limited space with easily washable floors. An exercise pen, spread with newspaper, is ideal. Keep the puppy confined, but close to the family, so he can be supervised yet still feel he is “part of the pack”. A room that usually perfectly fits these criteria is the kitchen. Place his water dish, with freshwater, close at hand. Place his crate, bedding, and toys inside the pen.
Pet and talk to him softly and tell him how glad you are that he is with you. Talking to your puppy in a soft, reassuring voice is extremely important. He will get used to your voice and will soon realize that you are there to protect and comfort him. He may not understand the words, but he will appreciate and understand the meaning. However, don’t pick him up every time he cries or barks, or he will soon associate that undesirable behavior with getting a positive response.
Make sure all poisonous household items are securely stored out of the puppy’s reach. Look at your house from a puppy’s point of view and remove any hazardous items. Make sure your puppy does not have access to cleaning supplies, paint and paint thinner, fertilizer, disinfectants, mothballs, insect and rodent poisons, antifreeze, medications, sewing supplies (ribbons, pins, buttons, beads, balls of yarn or thread), and hardware (nails, screws, paper clips, etc.)
Move or remove any poisonous plants. Remember to pick up plant leaves that drop onto your floor.
Confine your puppy to a safe area inside and keep doors and windows closed and/or screened securely.
Don’t leave a new puppy unsupervised inside or out.
Keep your puppy off balconies, upper porches, and high decks.
Keep toilet lids closed. Puppies may play in or drink the water. They could be hurt by a falling lid. Toilet bowl cleaners are harmful if swallowed.
Keep plastic bags away from your puppy.
Enroll in a training class:
I HIGHLY recommend enrolling your new puppy with a local dog club for a puppy socialization and training class. The classes are just as important for your new puppy as they are for you. Most of the time a quick search online will lead you to your nearest club. If you can’t find a local dog club Petsmart and Petco can be a good place to get started, but if you plan to advance beyond the basics I would recommend you find and start with a professional dog club.
This is the typical schedule for an 8-16 week old puppy. As they get older the time between trips outside is less often. I will typically email a current schedule to you once you have purchased a puppy.
We take potty breaks as frequently as every two hours. We start with potty pads or litter boxes and then transition that to going outside once they are old enough. We take the puppies out soon as they wake up and then before and immediately after breakfast, lunch, and dinner. We also go out every few hours for the remainder of the day. A typical day shapes up like this; out when they wake up, breakfast, 10 am, lunch, 2 pm, dinner, 7 pm, 9 pm, and 11 pm. This is a rigorous schedule but it establishes solid habits and we have great success with housebreaking.
As the puppy gets older you will start waiting longer between trips outside, you will know you have waited too long if there is an accident. My policy; if an accident happens it’s MY FAULT; my job is to provide a successful experience. It’s very important that you be consistent with your schedule. If the puppy knows you are coming they will “hold it”.
Your puppy is already going longer between trips out, but it is a good idea to follow this schedule for a couple of days to help the puppy understand that the rules in your house are the same as they were here.
After 7 PM at night don’t offer any food or treats. This will help make it easier for them to make it until morning before having to go outside. Also after this time at night limit the amount of water as well. I typically will pick up the water bowl at least an hour before our last trip outside.
Cleaning Up an Accident:
Accidents will happen from time to time with a new puppy. Housetraining takes patients and consistency. After an accident has happened remove your puppy from the accident scene until you’ve cleaned it thoroughly. Dogs are sensitive to the smell of urine, so preventing them from finding the soiled spot is important throughout the housebreaking process. You will want to clean up all accidents as soon as possible because urine that has a chance to soak into the carpet is more difficult to eliminate and often will attract your puppy to the same spot. Rinse the spot with cool water and use a towel to soak up the excess water and urine. You can also use a wet vacuum if you have one. After rinsing with water then use a cleaner. It is important to use a pet urine cleaner because urine is comprised of ammonia. Do not choose a cleanser that has ammonia listed as one of its ingredients. You want to choose a pet urine remover that has enzymes in it to break down the urine and eliminate urine odor.
It’s important to remember that pets do not have the same digestive systems as humans and that we need to keep certain foods away from them. Dogs should never eat chocolate, grapes, raisins, onions, macadamia nuts, walnuts, tomatoes, avocados, nutmeg, coffee, tea, or breath mints. All of these are toxic and can cause severe health problems or even death. All pets should avoid foods that are high in fat, salt, or sugar, bones that are likely to splinter (such as chicken bones), and alcohol. Meaning, do not give beer to your dog, even if you think it’s funny. If you are baking, keep pets away from yeast dough or bread dough, baking soda, or baking powder – ingesting these ingredients can cause serious problems. The seeds, leaves, and stems of many kinds of fruits and some vegetables can be toxic to pets. Don’t let your dog eat the pit of a pear, plum, peach, apricot, or apple. Also, make sure to keep all tobacco products away from your pet and don’t leave the filters where the dog has access to them.
24/7 Animal Poison Control Center
Kansas State University Veterinary Teaching Hospital
Once you decide on a name use it consistently. Be consistent and don’t use nicknames.
Limit visitors for the first few days.
DO NOT take your puppy to the store (especially not Petsmart and Petco), the local park, or to other public areas until they are at least 12 weeks of age. Your puppy’s immune system is not yet developed and you risk introducing them to potentially life-threatening diseases every time you take them into public.
Do not leave a new puppy unattended with small children or other family pets until you’re sure everyone is ready.
The best values for pet products can typically be found online! I often find free shipping offers too! Amazon.com, Chewy.com, and Dog.com are a few good sites to check out. Petsmart and Petco have some of the HIGHEST prices if shopping in their stores, but often will have better prices online. Don’t forget to search for coupon codes!